doornobk

I know a F-150 is not ideal for plowing but I have a 95 that runs good and has no other use at the moment.

On a recent episode of Deadliest Catch the Northwestern had a leak related to one of their fresh water tanks and apparently lost about 1/2 their water. Sig said they had to conserve water because the engines needed water more than they needed showers.

Why would the engine(s) regularly need fresh water? Don't they have a closed cooling system most likely running a antifreeze sort of thing? And like any other closed cooling system theoretically its closed so should not need regular refilling? They then have a liquid to liquid heat exchanger that circulates sea water to cool the coolant?

Or is it something like they are just keeping a reserve in case they had a cooling system failure and needed to re fill it?

Its a 13 VW TDI Jetta Sport Wagon. It has the no key system. I forget what they call it but its the one with the start button.

Today on my 05 Dodge Magnum RT the left rear turn signal got stuck on. Everything else seems to work normally. The rest of the turn signals work normally. Brake lights normal. Hazards normal. Just that one lamp seems to stay on all the time. For now I was just going to pull the fuse but it does not seem to be any in the front and I have to unload cargo to access the rear fuses.

Hoping someone here may have heard of this and knows what the fix is.

I have a 25-9605 Napa Gates V belt. Thats 12.5mm x 1545mm. Because of mods to my car I need a 10mm x 1545 ish belt. So far I have not been able to figure out the numbering system to figure out what part number to ask for. Most other belts the part number had the length and width as part of the numbers but I just have not figured out how the numbers work on these.

I have 3 pieces of equipment that are expecting to be hard wired to a switch. The equipment runs linux but its all proprietary so they don't give the installers direct access to the OS or the option for a traditional wireless connection. I have an installation coming up where it will be impractical to run a network wire between these three pieces of equipment. Was thinking there has to be some sort of wireless solution that could be pre configured with another PC so that when connected to the regular network port would appear to that equipment like it was hard wired. This network does not have any special security concerns and can be permanent. If other connections are needed into that network they can be handled with more typical wired or wireless connections.

Hopefully someone will know if these exist and what they are called. Specific brands and or model numbers may be helpful if you know them.

I got a leak out the rear output seal. Replaced the slip yolk, seal, and bushing it still leaks. Only thing I can think of is the vent must be plugged and its just pushing oil out. I looked around it and did not see it but since its still in the truck it would help to know where to look. Open to hear other ideas.

I was at a friends house and he has several photos from the 1920's of large groups of people. It was maybe 8" tall and 3' wide with 100 or more people. I could not detect any seams in any of them like it was several shots laid together. Just figure there was likely some nifty way they did those. Wondering how they did it.

Im working on a system that was a typical non static setup with a fairly typical modem / router that I believe has several physical jacks on the back of it. There is then a single wire to a switch that is the regular existing network. We are adding some equipment that requires a dedicated static IP. We had our ISP change our account to static and then add a second IP. The new system has its own router. The old system ideally wont change. Sorry I dont remember the modem model number but the question is can a typical modem / router be set up to basically do what it has always been doing on the existing network but pass that second addy to my new router? Or will I have to put that modem into bridge and get a second router for the other network. If I have to go the 2 router method will I need another switch to split the now bridged modem? Or can the internal stuff still act like a switch. Im dont currently have the model number of the modem / router so I realize that any answer wont be 100%, Im just hoping to hear if that is something a typical model can do.

This is a more recent thing, the biggest problem used to be one of them didnt like to cover. It does not seem to matter if the boxes are clean or dirty. They dont seem to go anywhere else in the house. Any ideas?

I have friend that has an Ipad. I need to send him some rather large PDF documents that are too large to email. He also needs to be able to write some small email attachments to USB stick. I see that there is a 'camera kit' available that looks like its a USB plug, will this allow him to do what we want? Will we need different apps or will it just work? Im a PC guy so I am used to just being able to plug a USB stick in.

I basically have a standard def system with direct tv. I'm happy with the quality and what I am paying so I dont really want to upgrade anything there but sometimes I want to record some shows. I can make my satellite box change channels on a program, I think it was designed to work with VHS so all I need so some sort of DVR box that I can set to start recording the Svideo and analog audio at a specific time. I bought a capture device for my computer but apparently my computer is not quite fast enough and the quality is much worse than I am used to. Also the software only allows timed or scheduled recording for the tv signals, not the video inputs. I assumed there were DVR boxes that were basically like a vcr where you could just tell them to start recording but it looks like they are all designed for fancy digital sources with fancy program guides and schedules that I dont have. Im open to looking for used equipment but also could spend money on new stuff if the right stuff exists.

Open to hear any thoughts or ideas.

Just got a 93 Mustang and the top was in terrible condition so I just broke down and had a new top installed. Its been back to the shop 3x for adjustments and its still darn near impossible and a 2 man job to get the top aligned to latch. Are these things really that crappy or does this shop just not have a clue? Anyone know any tricks on where to adjust? How about a good source of information on these tops. There are tons of Mustang forums but so far I have not found any that even have a section on dealing with the tops.

I have a Asus EeePC 900 with XP and the 16 gb SSD. Its my everyday beater computer so it did not really have anything critical on it so its not like I am going to go to great lengths to try and recover data or even save the machine, it was only around $200 new and it has worked well for 2 years but I sort of like a challenge and want to learn so if / when I do loose critical data I would have a greater chance of saving it. It was working normally and I shut the screen. I opened it back up later and it came up to the normal log in screen. I clicked on the log in and instead of the usual 2 short beeps it did a quick beep then seemed to stick on a stuttering beep. The mouse still worked but that is about it. I let it sit that way for about 15 mins and no change so I tried the power button, nothing, and the reset button on the back, still no change. Ended up removing the power. It came back up with the windows shut down wrong screen so I told it to start on last known good config. The windows start screen comes up then I get a quick blue screen that flashes by then it goes back to the initial bios boot screen and starts all over again. I have another identical working machine so I started swapping parts. Found the problem moves with the SSD. The SSD is not like the current ones where they share connectors and form factors with IDE or SATA drives, this one looks more like a ram card with a similar connector. I have an appercorn usb drive adapter with their bootable software. It loads but does not see the SSD. I also tried a few other bootable windows recovery programs and none of them see the internal SSD. The bios apparently sees it but that is about it. If I remove the SSD and try to boot from an external source I get farther through the boot process than I would without an external boot but it ends on a blue screen that says it has a problem and i should remove any new hard disc or controller and check for viruses. It seems like the drive is somewhat working because I do get the beginning of a windows boot and it seems like that must be coming off the drive so that is why I just figured part of the windows is corrupt. That does not seem to explain why none of the utilities can even see the drive or does it? I have a system recovery disc but have not yet tried it because I am still wondering if I can get my data back.

Any thoughts on other ways I could try and recover data? or is the drive just toast and I should just make backups more often and let this machine die and provide parts for the still working one?

I have an upcoming trip where I will be traveling around the Manchester NH area and see that there are some toll roads I will be traveling on. I also see that I have an option to get a E pass with my rental car. Its only $10 for the week plus tolls. I dont live in an area with toll roads so I find them to be a total hassle so I dont mind spending the $10 to avoid the hassle if there are not going to be a bunch of extra charges. I have heard that sometimes when you use a credit card at a toll booth that you can end up paying a $2 or more fee for a $0.75 toll. Is this true?

Anyone have any experience with getting one of these passes from a rental car company? Good idea or bad? I have driven toll roads around Chicago and then through IN and OH and it did seem like an E pass would be much easier.

The Yangtze river had commercial traffic on it before the dam was constructed. I would presume during constriction that traffic was able to go around the dam site using the bypass channels that the river flowed through so no big deal there, more or less business as usual. The dam when completed would have locks and lifts to get boats up the 500+ feet to then take advantage of the deeper water and be able to reach further up river with larger loads. Sounds good on paper. My question is did they just shut down traffic for the 2 years it took to fill up? Or did they have some temporary locks in operation that were then constantly modified till they reached their final height? If that is what they did it would seem like there should be some info on it somewhere since it like the rest of the project would have been pretty new technology.

So if you drive a hybrid car and live in a cold climate and have to park out doors how do you warm up the inside of the car before you drive anywhere?

Need to replace the lower ball joints on my 97 Chev Tahoe 4x4. I see that they are a press in part. Is there some sort of tool that will allow this to be done on the car without removing the lower control arm? Since its a torsion bar spring I would assume to remove the arm you would also need a special tool.

There are times when the hard drive on my XP machine just goes nuts. This can happens sometimes for several minutes. When its doing this nothing seems to work or works very slowly. Virus scans (paid versions) dont find anything. Defrag and cleanup say things are fine. Drive is only 50% filled. I have got task manager up and when its doing this there is no network activity and very little to no CPU time. No applications shown running. No unusual processes that I can tell.

Another thing I notice from time to time, not sure if its this machine or another one but when I get the windows log in screen it shows the user name and says 1 program running. As soon as I log into that profile there is noting running and nothing showing in task manager. Not sure if this is a problem or related to the drive activity or not.

Is there some utility that can tell me what its so busy doing? Currently all my machines are XP.